Thursday, December 29, 2011

Wild Horses and Waterfalls

The pool
As much of the main waterfall as I could get in one picture- 1200'
Our hike in.
This incredible valley.

A day off from work...yesssss...an adventure ahead.
A trip to a valley so dense and green you can nearly taste it. Full of bamboo, rouge coffee plants, marijuana patches (luckily we did not run into any of these) and untouched, mysterious and powerful rain forest. From the top of the road you come to a lookout point where a waterfall streams straight into the ocean near a black sand beach. It looks like something out of Jurassic Park. It looks fake- no pterodactyls to be seen thankfully.
Below, on the valley floor, a few tiny specks can be seen-people. The road is a mile long and loses over 1200' in elevation. A 25% grade. No car is allowed without 4-wheel drive even down the road (which is completely paved). We abandon the truck and walk down the hill. Never in my life have my muscles actually hurt from walking down a hill before. I could not believe it. Little did I know this was just the beginning, not to mention I realized we were going to have to walk up that horrendous hill to get back out. About half way down the hill we turn a corner and can see two spectacular waterfalls inland at the end of the valley, at least half a mile back. 1200' high- the tallest waterfalls on the island. This is our destination for the day.
Once on the valley floor we follow the road down across a couple of small streams and pass by a few homes (yes people live down here and tend to their crops, traditional and very sacred, only about half a dozen very small bungalows can be seen). Walking along we are greeted by a horse, wild, I am told, or at least semi-wild. She doesn't want anything to do with us. Her colt follows close behind her, maybe four months old at the most and gives us a curious look and then hurries behind his mother, off to find something to eat I am sure.
We follow the road for no more than a quarter of a mile. All of a sudden my friend darts left into the underbrush and disappears. Apparently the "trail" we are taking is right before the first major river crossing. I didn't even see it, although to my defense I did not know where exactly we were going in the first place.
The trail meanders along the river, which is relatively mellow as there had not been any major storms that day. Over thick roots of tall trees, around boulders under low branches and under fences we go. We are on a mission. We are the only ones out here, everyone else goes right heading toward the beach. We pass one sign, handmade, stating to be cautious of rock slides near the waterfalls, no where within 100' is safe at the pools. We think nothing of it, although it is odd because my friend has never seen this sign before and has come out here often...hm...
moving on.
Our first river crossing of the day. I'm in about as little clothing as possible at this point as it is hot and humid. The river is calm as it has been dammed for irrigation in this particular spot. We take off our packs and slip into the refreshing, clear, cold water and walk upstream. I was up to my neck in one spot holding my pack high so I didn't ruin my notebook (which eventually became soaked anyways...oh well). We scramble up the rocks onto the adjacent side and haul ourselves back up to the trail which continues on the other side. Most people, I am told, turn back at that point as they are stumped and do not want to trespass on private property. A couple more river crossings, mossy rock scrambling (a climber's nightmare) and wandering through the tall bamboo and we are finally at our last corner before the waterfalls (about an hour later). They are absolutely breathtaking. I find myself nearly falling over whenever I try to see to the top. There are two main waterfalls flowing and a very small third just gaining its stream off to the left of the valley's end. We are completely alone here. The water has generated its own wind from its constant flow, chilly. It truly is unbelievably beautiful, I have never seen anything like it in real life.
We are in a basin now. The back of this valley is contained in a way that shows this waterfall was once much larger and much more powerful. This bowl makes me feel oddly comfortable and secure-everything is so green and beautiful, it reminds me of something out of jungle book now. We sit and rest and break out the jackets. It's cool enough here that if it weren't already so humid, you would be able to see your breath. We decide there is no better idea than to go swimming under this waterfall in the cold (mind you probably high 60's) water. I have never swum under a waterfall this large before- it's powerful. I have to swim backward to it because the force of the wind throws water right at me and causes me to lose my breath. I am under the waterfall. It is deeper than I can touch so I am treading water now.
Okay, we've made it to our destination and jumped in, it's time to get out, we're freezing. As we get out of the water another couple of people show up. They have a guide book and have found this place through sheer perseverance as the book does not tell you how to get back this far, I'm proud of them for sticking with it without knowing where they are going. We say hello and exchange congratulations at making it.
Sitting back, staring at this waterfall in all its glory I am so content. I am cold, but content. The rocks seem to be stacked here so perfectly, almost as if tiny staircases have been built all the way up the sides of these falls. The rocks are wet, green with moss and small flora and look to be each in their place. It's perfect.
We congratulate ourselves for making it out here too.
Another few minutes of enjoying this beautiful place and then a decision to depart. We bid the other two farewell and start our hike out. We pass five others who are on their way out to the falls, they're nearly there. Smiling faces and wet shoes, they continue on their way.
We are nearly halfway out of the valley when I hear thunder overhead. I think to myself, damn, we are going to be scrambling in the rain now and we still have rivers to cross, this is not ideal...I have time enough to get all of these thoughts out and realize that the thunder is still going. I panic. I realize the thunder I am hearing is a giant rock slide coming from the back of the valley, the waterfalls. My friend is ahead of me on the trail a few paces and once we realize what has happened, we start racing back- we can't leave them there. Covering ourselves in mud and muck as we fly over rocks and cross these streams back to the end of the valley. We stop just short of the last corner (there are many overhanging rocks we should check on before walking under them) and listen. Nothing. I find myself holding my breath to listen. We round the corner and suddenly are greeted by all seven of the strangers on the trail. Ashen faced and walking quickly they are departing. We explain why we came back and they proceed to tell us where the rocks fell- right where we were swimming half an hour before and thanking us for coming back. Apparently the larger group had just gotten out of the water 30 seconds before the rocks came crashing down the center of the falls. Truckloads. Everyone's okay. We realize how lucky we all are to be alive. Unbelievable.
Our hike out is fast, just the two of us again. We are mostly in silence, only exchanging a couple of glances of relief at one another the whole hike out. As clouds move in I realize we are at our first river crossing again. Dropping down to wash all the mud off of me I have a moment to realize just how fragile life is and how thankful I am that we are all still here. A very intense reminder to treasure every moment I am given, even the rough ones. We pass by the handwritten sign and stop to ponder how ironic it is that that sign spoke such truth.
We've made it out. We have a final look at the "trail head" and head out, toward the hill of doom. The mare and colt are snacking along the roadside, mom still wanting nothing to do with us. The colt on the other hand walks up to us and investigates. He is not spooked by us and actually lets us pet his muzzle. He's sweet, no taller than me and is happy for the attention.
Our hill hike is cut short about 1/10 of the way up by a very friendly man in a pickup truck who lets us ride up in the bed to the top. THANK GOODNESS! This hill is unreal. Even the truck ride was long. I am so thankful. Wow. We look at one another and realize what a great adventure we have just had. An adventure with a potentially horrible accident and a happy ending. Looking out at the wide open ocean, we say our silent goodbyes and jump into the truck to head back home.
What a day. What an adventure. What a lesson. No swimming under waterfalls. I can say I have done it, but I do not think I will do it again.
Thai food and green tea to warm us up and the heater on full blast as the sun sets on this little lava stone in the Pacific. Day well spent.

Be well and take care,
M.

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Mele Kalikimaka!



Mele Kalikimaka from the Kohala Coast of the Big Island!

This year is the first year where I have been away from my family for the holidays. Although it is very soothing and quiet sitting here on this patio overlooking the ocean, I am sorry to not have them all by my side being loud and full of laughter...

That said I have spent this holiday season at the beach, working, but still with my toes in the sand every day. I've been surrounded by people from all over the world and am even picking up on a little Japanese since my arrival...I'll let you know how that one turns out.
My co-workers tell me I am finally getting darker, which I laugh about all the time because I considered myself to be pretty tan before I got here...oh well....

This week has brought many surprises...fabulous baked goods from family and friends, amazing sunsets and a captain as a new best friend. I do not have work on New Years Eve or Day, so my plan is to spend as much time out on the boats as possible and hopefully catch the fireworks from the water, maybe even spend the night on one of the boats out in the bay.
It has been cold here...yes cold. I do not know how it happened, but my body has acclimated so quickly that anything close to low 60s feels like a frigid winter day in the mountains...I'm ashamed...it's a little ridiculous.

This new year has made my mind roll out a list of new years resolutions and I have decided to throw them all out the window already. I have decided that a positive change in life should not start on the first day of the year, it should start right away.
That said, I plan to keep any bad habits that I may have and maybe pick up a few good ones along the way...you only live once...or twice...or nine times depending on who you are...

As I write this one of my closest friends is getting ready to embark on his own amazing adventure to another small set of islands in the Pacific. I am absolutely thrilled for him and hope he finds nothing but great adventure and amazing new friends. New Zealand is lucky to have him. I cannot wait for all the stories.

With the wind howling over the mountains and lava fields, I cannot help but think that this adventure, no matter how much I have resented it at times, has been an incredible journey. It has been a change where I have learned so much about myself and about the person I have turned into over the years. I realize more and more that I am very different from the girl that left that little mountain town for the "big city." Although that big city did not turn out to be so big, it was still a great chapter that I look forward to returning to someday. And hey, I have even met a fellow Santa Cruzian here on the Big Island, AND he works for the same company as me... this small world just keeps getting smaller.

I'm not far away and can be back to the mainland in 6 hours if need be, so look out! It's a small world after all...(hopefully you are now singing...you're welcome).

Wishing you well on this clear cool evening.
Climbers keep climbing hard. Travel safely to the mountains and back home.

Spam count, shockingly, still zero...

Aloha,
Be Well,
M.

My new relaxation station is pictured above...15 feet up in a beautiful dead tree that has broken off into the ocean. Whales breaching in the distance, white sand and clear, warm water below. <3




Friday, December 16, 2011

Whale of a Time

Whales and Cocktails...minus the cocktails for us because we were being paid to experience this magic.
Several sightings, no breaches but quite a few tails to show off.
Perfect weather, great boat crew and a day well spent out on the water.

First tail of the day
Such a little dorsal fin for such a large creature.

The creatures in this world are absolutely incredible. I cannot wait to get back out on the water.

Love,
M.

Monday, December 12, 2011

Wool Socks and Snow on the Mountain Top




Steph Davis' autobiography has arrived in the mail. Countless cups of coffee, lazy voggy (yes voggy-volcanic fog) weather and decorations popping up around my neighborhood.
Lifeguard certifications received, nights at the harbor listening to new friends play the ukelele and sing from our tailgates, meteor showers on the beach.
Santa in board shorts...it's official, complete with metallic tinted sunnies and slippers. Good grief.
The whales are showing up finally. I'm going on a Whales and Cocktails cruise tomorrow...for work...nuff said.
It's all I can do not to go into a baking frenzy and befriend all of my neighbors by making them fat with cookies and fudge (Laguners- you're next)
Mauna Kea officially had a major storm hit it earlier this week. The other side of the island is currently flooding and the storms seem to be brewing up something fierce for the upcoming days...hence my wool socks...I'm ready.
Pipe Masters is going on on the north shore of Oahu and for some reason it is so much more exciting when you are watching it with people who grew up with the contestants and have surfed the break.
I am thinking of relocating to a town a bit higher up the mountain called Waimea (about 15 miles further from work, but worth the commute I think). Small mountain town-think the foothills of the Sierra with fog like Santa Cruz and rainforest...not too shabby. I'm on the hunt, as are a few of my friends for me. Maybe a small studio is in the works, I'll keep you posted.

With Jack Johnson playing in the background, I have officially decided to stop panicking about what my next moves are in life and enjoy my time here for what it is, right now, not for what it could be or what I want it to be.
I've always embraced this adventure, but I have to say I have not been too keen on accepting this adventure as anything permanent, so that is what I have been focusing on. It has done me absolutely no favors. Wasted energy being stressed about when to leave and what I am going to do once I get back. Instead, I am making a move to learn as much as I can while I am here and worry about the next few months later once I have given my mind and body a good rest.
I maintain that I truly am flying by the seat of my pants. I have no idea what I am doing and although it may seem like I do, I am in fact just as lost as the rest of my friends, but am choosing to at least be lost in a cool place for the time being (and have been lucky enough to make that happen). Being done with school means I no longer have time to stall and act like I know what I am doing with my life. The end of college instead has meant joining the real world with still no idea what I am doing with myself except living...
In the wise words of a dear friend, "you'll either figure it out, or you'll die." Simple. To the point. And incredibly true. I think we all are trying so hard to make something of ourselves (whatever that means) and are spending our time panicking about the future, when in fact we are alive and well (because we are panicking and that takes a great deal of energy, so we must be at least moderately healthy and very much alive) and should be enjoying the life we are living even if we have no idea what we are doing.
And this just in, adulthood and "joining the real world" does not mean you suddenly have all the answers to all of those tough questions we were all asking ourselves before we moved or finished school or started school; it means you have to put your big person panties on and work through whatever happens (while still having no clue what is happening) (very promising)
Own it.
And when all else fails, put your wool socks* on and stare up at the mountain tops* because it's a beautiful day and not even not knowing what your next move is will change that. (*replace with appropriate footwear and landmark of choice)

I'm sending you love with a lighter mind and heart tonight and wishing you all safe travels and happy memories with your family and friends this holiday season, wherever you may be.

Spam count- zero
Love from this little lava stone in the Pacific,
M.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Riding Turtles...


Imagine my surprise when this scrappy, 5'3" native Hawaiian man tells me he has ridden a sea turtle...
Just imagine...
"Oh your God," I exclaim. He is not the type of man that you would ever want to laugh at either. He may be 5'3", but he could kick your ass as soon as look at you...I tried my hardest to keep my composure as I pictured this little man gripping onto a sea turtle's shell and riding it like "one boogie board onto the beach." How un-freaking-believable is that? Not to mention how unbelievably illegal this surfing escapade is-the environmentalist in my head was jumping up and down saying "scold this little man for his wrongdoing..." (which also would have been a terrible idea, as I have only been here for a month and have no place speaking up about that just yet).
I must have been wearing my thoughts completely on my sleeve because he explained to me that the turtles were not on the endangered species list/ in any way protected when he did this, as he goes on to tell me he has done this several times.
Unreal.
My jaw drops just thinking about it...it was all I could do not to call him Captain Jack Sparrow or better yet Ariel the little mermaid...both of which would have been quite suitable, however not necessarily the most respectable of choices.
Never a dull day on the job I guess.

The seasons are definitely changing around here. The temperature has dropped from 79 and sunny to 76 and breezy... if it keeps this up I will be in a jacket by 2014. I joke, but I think the lack of seasons is getting to me. In my mind December means snow or at least fog and rain, not predictable weather every day with no variation. You are all probably thinking I am insane, but honestly, embrace the season wherever you are and realize the beauty of this time of year. I may be skipping winter this year, but a sandman does not compare to a snowman and Santa does not wear board shorts and no shirt (this should not be allowed, I don't care if we are on the surface of the sun, you wear your suit Santa).

I did however have a snow cone today to celebrate the change in season...

The wind is howling over here, however not as bad as in California. I hope everyone is anchored down and has not suffered any damages or injuries from the crazy gusts.

Waikoloa is being flooded by hundreds of brain surgeons for the next week, who apparently are all here for a big conference. Taking very, VERY smart people paddle boarding today was quite an adventure. Never have I had such an in depth conversation about brain health and activity while paddling around A Bay, or in general for that grey matter. (ha!) Apparently there is a lot to be said about doing the occasional cross word puzzle and eating a healthy serving of blueberries when you can. So much knowledge gained today.

Spam count still at zero.
No snow on Mauna Kea, but probably by the end of the week.

Mahalo for reading!
M.




Saturday, December 3, 2011

December Arrives.


Aloha!

I have now been here for exactly one month.
Before arriving many people had given me advice about things to be aware of out here on the big island. The list includes crazy local girls who will want to beat me up, sharks, the yearning to fall in love and have children, staff infections, falling into lava, flat feet, wild boars and an addiction to coffee. Except for the last one (Kona coffee has been good to me so far), I have not experienced any of the things that people warned me about before arriving. Hopefully the dangerous animals and infections will keep their distance, I'll keep you posted.

The company Christmas party was this weekend. The evening was filled with hilarious dancing, ridiculous conversations, drinking to a point of embarrassing dance moves and fabulous gifts for every employee. This crew of people (all departments were present) kept me on my toes all night long. They are hilarious, kind-hearted and surprisingly great dancers. I did dig out a bit early though due to a long work day and overall exhaustion.

I am going into my second week of waterfront lifeguard training, which is making my days extra long. The swim tests have been easy and the crew is small so we have been having a good time with it. Next week I will hopefully be a beach lifeguard and will get a pay raise!

And now for a quick list of random facts:

$5 footlongs on the mainland= $7 footlongs on the islands...
just sayin'

There are geckos in the house. They are the Cali equivalent of daddy long legs.

Whale watching season has begun! Our trips are going out every day and sightings have been trickling in every trip. I cannot wait to see one up close.

I have my first lifeguard exam tomorrow, so I am hitting the books (I thought I was done with book studying for a while...?)

Sending love,
M.