A day off from work...yesssss...an adventure ahead.
A trip to a valley so dense and green you can nearly taste it. Full of bamboo, rouge coffee plants, marijuana patches (luckily we did not run into any of these) and untouched, mysterious and powerful rain forest. From the top of the road you come to a lookout point where a waterfall streams straight into the ocean near a black sand beach. It looks like something out of Jurassic Park. It looks fake- no pterodactyls to be seen thankfully.
Below, on the valley floor, a few tiny specks can be seen-people. The road is a mile long and loses over 1200' in elevation. A 25% grade. No car is allowed without 4-wheel drive even down the road (which is completely paved). We abandon the truck and walk down the hill. Never in my life have my muscles actually hurt from walking down a hill before. I could not believe it. Little did I know this was just the beginning, not to mention I realized we were going to have to walk up that horrendous hill to get back out. About half way down the hill we turn a corner and can see two spectacular waterfalls inland at the end of the valley, at least half a mile back. 1200' high- the tallest waterfalls on the island. This is our destination for the day.
Once on the valley floor we follow the road down across a couple of small streams and pass by a few homes (yes people live down here and tend to their crops, traditional and very sacred, only about half a dozen very small bungalows can be seen). Walking along we are greeted by a horse, wild, I am told, or at least semi-wild. She doesn't want anything to do with us. Her colt follows close behind her, maybe four months old at the most and gives us a curious look and then hurries behind his mother, off to find something to eat I am sure.
We follow the road for no more than a quarter of a mile. All of a sudden my friend darts left into the underbrush and disappears. Apparently the "trail" we are taking is right before the first major river crossing. I didn't even see it, although to my defense I did not know where exactly we were going in the first place.
The trail meanders along the river, which is relatively mellow as there had not been any major storms that day. Over thick roots of tall trees, around boulders under low branches and under fences we go. We are on a mission. We are the only ones out here, everyone else goes right heading toward the beach. We pass one sign, handmade, stating to be cautious of rock slides near the waterfalls, no where within 100' is safe at the pools. We think nothing of it, although it is odd because my friend has never seen this sign before and has come out here often...hm...
moving on.
Our first river crossing of the day. I'm in about as little clothing as possible at this point as it is hot and humid. The river is calm as it has been dammed for irrigation in this particular spot. We take off our packs and slip into the refreshing, clear, cold water and walk upstream. I was up to my neck in one spot holding my pack high so I didn't ruin my notebook (which eventually became soaked anyways...oh well). We scramble up the rocks onto the adjacent side and haul ourselves back up to the trail which continues on the other side. Most people, I am told, turn back at that point as they are stumped and do not want to trespass on private property. A couple more river crossings, mossy rock scrambling (a climber's nightmare) and wandering through the tall bamboo and we are finally at our last corner before the waterfalls (about an hour later). They are absolutely breathtaking. I find myself nearly falling over whenever I try to see to the top. There are two main waterfalls flowing and a very small third just gaining its stream off to the left of the valley's end. We are completely alone here. The water has generated its own wind from its constant flow, chilly. It truly is unbelievably beautiful, I have never seen anything like it in real life.
We are in a basin now. The back of this valley is contained in a way that shows this waterfall was once much larger and much more powerful. This bowl makes me feel oddly comfortable and secure-everything is so green and beautiful, it reminds me of something out of jungle book now. We sit and rest and break out the jackets. It's cool enough here that if it weren't already so humid, you would be able to see your breath. We decide there is no better idea than to go swimming under this waterfall in the cold (mind you probably high 60's) water. I have never swum under a waterfall this large before- it's powerful. I have to swim backward to it because the force of the wind throws water right at me and causes me to lose my breath. I am under the waterfall. It is deeper than I can touch so I am treading water now.
Okay, we've made it to our destination and jumped in, it's time to get out, we're freezing. As we get out of the water another couple of people show up. They have a guide book and have found this place through sheer perseverance as the book does not tell you how to get back this far, I'm proud of them for sticking with it without knowing where they are going. We say hello and exchange congratulations at making it.
Sitting back, staring at this waterfall in all its glory I am so content. I am cold, but content. The rocks seem to be stacked here so perfectly, almost as if tiny staircases have been built all the way up the sides of these falls. The rocks are wet, green with moss and small flora and look to be each in their place. It's perfect.
We congratulate ourselves for making it out here too.
Another few minutes of enjoying this beautiful place and then a decision to depart. We bid the other two farewell and start our hike out. We pass five others who are on their way out to the falls, they're nearly there. Smiling faces and wet shoes, they continue on their way.
We are nearly halfway out of the valley when I hear thunder overhead. I think to myself, damn, we are going to be scrambling in the rain now and we still have rivers to cross, this is not ideal...I have time enough to get all of these thoughts out and realize that the thunder is still going. I panic. I realize the thunder I am hearing is a giant rock slide coming from the back of the valley, the waterfalls. My friend is ahead of me on the trail a few paces and once we realize what has happened, we start racing back- we can't leave them there. Covering ourselves in mud and muck as we fly over rocks and cross these streams back to the end of the valley. We stop just short of the last corner (there are many overhanging rocks we should check on before walking under them) and listen. Nothing. I find myself holding my breath to listen. We round the corner and suddenly are greeted by all seven of the strangers on the trail. Ashen faced and walking quickly they are departing. We explain why we came back and they proceed to tell us where the rocks fell- right where we were swimming half an hour before and thanking us for coming back. Apparently the larger group had just gotten out of the water 30 seconds before the rocks came crashing down the center of the falls. Truckloads. Everyone's okay. We realize how lucky we all are to be alive. Unbelievable.
Our hike out is fast, just the two of us again. We are mostly in silence, only exchanging a couple of glances of relief at one another the whole hike out. As clouds move in I realize we are at our first river crossing again. Dropping down to wash all the mud off of me I have a moment to realize just how fragile life is and how thankful I am that we are all still here. A very intense reminder to treasure every moment I am given, even the rough ones. We pass by the handwritten sign and stop to ponder how ironic it is that that sign spoke such truth.
We've made it out. We have a final look at the "trail head" and head out, toward the hill of doom. The mare and colt are snacking along the roadside, mom still wanting nothing to do with us. The colt on the other hand walks up to us and investigates. He is not spooked by us and actually lets us pet his muzzle. He's sweet, no taller than me and is happy for the attention.
Our hill hike is cut short about 1/10 of the way up by a very friendly man in a pickup truck who lets us ride up in the bed to the top. THANK GOODNESS! This hill is unreal. Even the truck ride was long. I am so thankful. Wow. We look at one another and realize what a great adventure we have just had. An adventure with a potentially horrible accident and a happy ending. Looking out at the wide open ocean, we say our silent goodbyes and jump into the truck to head back home.
What a day. What an adventure. What a lesson. No swimming under waterfalls. I can say I have done it, but I do not think I will do it again.
Thai food and green tea to warm us up and the heater on full blast as the sun sets on this little lava stone in the Pacific. Day well spent.
Be well and take care,
M.